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Burberry draws on sculptor Henry Moore in fashion highlight

Associated Press logo Associated Press 2/20/2017 By GREGORY KATZ, Associated Press
A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

LONDON (AP) — All eyes were on Burberry and creative director Christopher Bailey Monday night as London Fashion Week reached its starry climax.

U.S singer Katy Perry poses for photographers after the Autumn/Winter 2017 show by Christopher Kane as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press U.S singer Katy Perry poses for photographers after the Autumn/Winter 2017 show by Christopher Kane as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

Bailey didn't disappoint, drawing on the sculptor Henry Moore for inspiration in a startling new collection that built on the English heritage brand's traditional appeal.

Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

The Burberry spectacle capped four days of shows that highlighted London's claim to be an international fashion hub that rivals Paris, Milan and New York.

A model wears a creation during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP)

Buyers, devoted fans and journalists — including American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour — enjoyed spring-like temperatures as they viewed offerings from Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem and Aspinal of London on Monday.

Models wear a creations during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP) © The Associated Press Models wear a creations during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP)

The shows continue Tuesday before the fashion circus moves on to Milan.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

BURBERRY CONTINUES TO MINE BRITAIN'S ARTISTIC HERITAGE

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

No fashion house pays as much attention to English heritage as Burberry, which paid homage to the late English sculptor Henry Moore with the autumn and winter collection unveiled to a packed house Monday night.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

The catwalk space was adorned with some of Moore's outsized sculptures and guests were treated to a display of his drawings before the show.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Bailey said he sought to make the clothes three-dimensional and textured much like Moore's sculptures — which look smooth from a distance but are actually textured and detailed when viewed up close.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

He told The Associated Press he used the color palette that Moore often wore when he worked and pointed proudly to one of Moore's striped work aprons on display behind glass at the Burberry Makers House in London's Soho neighborhood.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"Henry Moore has been a huge influence on me my whole life," Bailey said of the sculptor known for his monumental works.

Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"I grew up very close to where he was born. I'm very privileged that we had a sculpture park close by. My formative years were spent there," he continued. "He's been a big influence, but I never really got under the skin of his work, and for this collection it just felt right."

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Bailey said the sculptural shapes of the collection were taken from Moore, as was the lacing he used on many pieces. The stripes came from Moore's apron, and the rope motif — seen by some as nautical — came from the abstract shapes Moore created with ropes.

A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Burberry has for several years shunned the recorded music heard at many shows in favor of live performances. Monday's show was enlivened by English singer-songwriter Anna Calvi, backed by her band and the Heritage Orchestra and Choir.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

The music, the sculptures and the evocative collection justified Burberry's status as a London fashion fixture.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

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A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

CHRISTOPHER KANE SEEKS 'TOUGHER FEMININITY' IN ECLECTIC SHOW

A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

One of London's favorite designers, Christopher Kane, mixed new technology with tried-and-true craftsmanship to produce a stellar show Monday at the Tate Britain museum.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

Kane used space-age techniques, including holographic foiled lace and iridescent full-print knits, along with a traditional weaving process from the early days of mechanization. Most striking was the use of a Gainsborough silk reworking of a French damask from the 18th century that was styled into very contemporary dresses.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

Kane's approach gave the outfits an old-meets-new mystique, and the use of Asian motifs, including billowing silk prints, expanded his range. Triangular shapes appeared on the front of many dresses and Kane made good use of the pink floral theme that has been popular in shows this year.

A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"We wanted to express a tougher femininity this season," said Kane. "(I was) looking at abstract shapes, hard angles, and sharp jags" inspired in part by female factory workers.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

Leading hatmaker Stephen Jones called the show "fantastic."

A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"There was so much fashion that was new," he said. "The colors. The pearlescent knitwear. Everything about it. That Gainsborough silk — you see that in Buckingham Palace! It was great to see it here in a show."

Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Singer Katy Perry sat in the front row, adding her star power to the proceedings.

Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Models display creations by Burberry during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

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FULL-LENGTH DRESSES TAKE THE HONORS AT ERDEM

The Erdem show at the Old Selfridges Hotel showed a remarkable unity of vision despite a wide range of colors, fabrics and mood.

Canada-born designer Erdem Moralioglu focused almost entirely on long, tightly fitting, ultra-feminine dresses. Instead of exposing wide swaths of his models' flesh, as other designers are doing, he chose to emphasize the female form in its entirety, only rarely choosing to unveil a hint of cleavage.

Most of the outfits featured high necks and long sleeves with elaborate detailing, intricate beadwork and delicate embroidery. Oversize coats or high boots seemed to explode with color. The beauty was in the detailing, which gave each piece an individual feel.

Some were sparkly, some were subtle and subdued. Despite their differences, the pieces complemented each other, making the entire collection come alive.

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ASPINAL LOOKS TO WEST END FOR INSPIRATION

Aspinal of London, a luxury handbag maker, took inspiration from the theaters of London's West End to present a collection that celebrated its heritage with a nod to the elegance of a bygone era.

In a champagne presentation at the exclusive Claridge's hotel, the classic British brand arranged its designs for autumn-winter 2017 under spotlights that showed off their craftsmanship and fine details.

Among the more notable pieces were the hand-embellished "Pegasus" collection, which includes bags decorated with a flying horse sprinkled with 23-carat gold dust and Swarovski details. On the other side of the spectrum was the Editor's Clutch, a simple but elegant bag that features three pockets and a detachable cross-body strap.

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Danica Kirka in London contributed to this story.

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