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Christopher Kane mixes old and new for stellar London show

Associated Press logo Associated Press 2/20/2017 By GREGORY KATZ, Associated Press
Models wear a creations during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP) © The Associated Press Models wear a creations during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP)

LONDON (AP) — All eyes at London Fashion Week were eagerly awaiting the autumn-winter designs of Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey, a Monday night spectacle that caps four days of shows highlighting London's status as a fashion hub to rival Paris, Milan and New York.

A model wears a creation during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation during the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week show in London Monday Feb. 20, 2017. (Matt Crossick/PA via AP)

Buyers, devoted fans and journalists — including American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour — were enjoying spring-like temperatures as they viewed a wide range of offerings Monday.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

CHRISTOPHER KANE SEEKS 'TOUGHER FEMININITY' IN ECLECTIC SHOW

Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

One of London's favorite designers, Christopher Kane, mixed new technology with tried-and-true craftsmanship to produce a stellar show Monday at the Tate Britain museum.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Kane used space-age techniques, including holographic foiled lace and iridescent full-print knits, along with a traditional weaving process from the early days of mechanization. Most striking was the use of a Gainsborough silk reworking of a French damask from the 18th century that was styled into very contemporary dresses.

Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press Model Adwoa Aboah wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Kane's approach gave the outfits an old-meets-new mystique, and the use of Asian motifs, including billowing silk prints, expanded his range. Triangular shapes appeared on the front of many dresses and Kane made good use of the pink floral theme that has been popular in shows this year.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"We wanted to express a tougher femininity this season," said Kane. "(I was) looking at abstract shapes, hard angles, and sharp jags" inspired in part by female factory workers.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Leading hatmaker Stephen Jones called the show "fantastic."

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

"There was so much fashion that was new," he said. "The colors. The pearlescent knitwear. Everything about it. That Gainsborough silk — you see that in Buckingham Palace! It was great to see it here in a show."

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Singer Katy Perry sat in the front row, adding her star power to the proceedings.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

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A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

FULL-LENGTH DRESSES TAKE THE HONORS AT ERDEM

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

The Erdem show at the Old Selfridges Hotel showed a remarkable unity of vision despite a wide range of colors, fabrics and mood.

A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Pringle of Scotland during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Canada-born designer Erdem Moralioglu focused almost entirely on long, tightly fitting, ultra-feminine dresses. Instead of exposing wide swaths of his models' flesh, as other designers are doing, he chose to emphasize the female form in its entirety, only rarely choosing to unveil a hint of cleavage.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Most of the outfits featured high necks and long sleeves with elaborate detailing, intricate beadwork and delicate embroidery. Oversize coats or high boots seemed to explode with color. The beauty was in the detailing, which gave each piece an individual feel.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Some were sparkly, some were subtle and subdued. Despite their differences, the pieces complemented each other, making the entire collection come alive.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

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A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

ASPINAL LOOKS TO WEST END FOR INSPIRATION

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Aspinal of London, a luxury handbag maker, took inspiration from the theaters of London's West End to present a collection that celebrated its heritage with a nod to the elegance of a bygone era.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

In a champagne presentation at the exclusive Claridge's hotel, the classic British brand arranged its designs for autumn-winter 2017 under spotlights that showed off their craftsmanship and fine details.

A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by designer Roksanda during their Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (AP Photo/Kirsty Wigglesworth)

Among the more notable pieces were the hand-embellished "Pegasus" collection, which includes bags decorated with a flying horse sprinkled with 23-carat gold dust and Swarovski details. On the other side of the spectrum was the Editor's Clutch, a simple but elegant bag that features three pockets and a detachable cross-body strap.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

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A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP) © The Associated Press A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

Danica Kirka in London contributed to this story.

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

A model displays a creation by Christopher Kane during his Autumn/Winter 2017 show as part of London Fashion Week in London, Monday, Feb. 20, 2017. (Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)
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