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Emporio Armani reinvents classics, Zegna debuts new designer

Associated Press logo Associated Press 1/14/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Fashion designer Giorgio Armani poses with models after presenting his Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Giorgio Armani poses with models after presenting his Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MILAN (AP) — If turmoil brings innovation and renovation, Italian menswear is in for a creative burst.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Fashion houses are continuing their reboot of Milan Fashion Week menswear offerings, with notables like Bottega Veneta and Gucci sitting out this round, preferring to combine menswear and womenswear previews next month. That is making room for a plethora of newcomers.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The data indicates that menswear is worth the re-think. Euromonitor market research forecasts that between now and 2020, growth in sales for men's attire and accessories globally will outpace that of women. Last year alone, Italian menswear produced 9 billion euros in revenue.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Here are some highlights Saturday of menswear previews for next fall and winter on the first day of Milan Fashion Week:

A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

CLASSICS REINTERPRETED

A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted classics through the decades with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Many of the looks were feminized, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.

Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Double-breasted suits with soft helmlines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.

Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with gray scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while molded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette.

A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Hair was slicked back and footwear had thick traction soles. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters. The color palette was classic: gray, black, tan and olive green.

Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MONUMENTAL LOOKS

Alessandro Sartori made his debut Friday evening as the creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna in a monumental style, sending his creations down a runway flanked by Anselm Kiefer's towering installation of The Seven Heavenly Palaces at Pirelli's cavernous Hangar Bicocca.

The looks exuded relaxed sophistication, as tailoring altered sportswear, or vice versa. Or, as the brand said in its press notes, Sarotori's "new aesthetic ... evolves and breaks codes, relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions."

Elasticized cuffs on trousers and gathers on jackets created an active feel on looks that were completed with sneakers. Felted cashmere suits had the simplicity of jersey, with quilted arms in contrast colors to create a vest effect over kimono neckline shirts.

Nubby Casentino felt from Tuscany was created from cashmere and alpaca, suggesting ease but underlining elegance in loose-fitting suits. Cozy accents included high necks, big gloves and droopy caps.

Colors tended toward gray, tan and black neutrals while turquoise and white popped up on leather jackets and large knits.

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