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Emporio reinvents classics, Dolce&Gabbana court millennials

Associated Press logo Associated Press 1/14/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Models wear creations for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MILAN (AP) — If turmoil brings innovation and renovation, Italian menswear is in for a creative burst.

Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Fashion houses are continuing their reboot of Milan Fashion Week menswear offerings, with notables like Bottega Veneta and Gucci sitting out this round, preferring to combine menswear and womenswear previews next month. That is making room for a plethora of newcomers.

A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The data indicates that menswear is worth the re-think. Euromonitor market research forecasts that between now and 2020, growth in sales for men's attire and accessories globally will outpace that of women. Last year alone, Italian menswear produced 9 billion euros in revenue.

Fashion designer Giorgio Armani poses with models after presenting his Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Giorgio Armani poses with models after presenting his Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Here are some highlights Saturday of menswear previews for next fall and winter on the first day of Milan Fashion Week:

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

COURTING MILENNIALS

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Dolce&Gabbana have one-upped themselves, moving the young millennial crowd that has populated their front row in recent seasons onto the runway.

A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Pop star Austin Mahone, dapper in a tux with tapered legs, set the mood, dancing up and down the runway throughout the show, making the moves on the ladies, who included Sylvester Stallone's three daughters.

A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Dolce&Gabbana's show was titled "The New Princes" and it's clear that they are catering to a young, selfie-savvy generation bred on social media. In an ultimate branding move, the designing pair created a pair of faceQ app-like images of themselves on jackets and sweaters.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Alongside the brand's trademark tailored suits, the new collection includes zany plush animal head hoods or backpacks, and Rasta knit hats or crowns over baseball caps, fun-loving Harajuku touches for a generation that prizes its juvenile side. Jeans and jackets were covered with appliques, with royal motifs from crowns to hearts emerging as decorative emojis.

Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Emporio Armani men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The collection was a furious display of graphic prowess with humanized animal motifs alongside the brand's typical religious imagery. It was as breathless as the new generation star power on the runway.

Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Ermenegildo Zegna men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Friday, Jan. 13, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

CROSS CULTURAL

Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The new Versace man is both a traveler who means business and a sportsman who knows how to relax.

Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

His suits fit close to the body, paired with dark glasses and two-toned sneakers. Double-breasted overcoats, knitted blanket jackets or belted trenches completed the Versace looks. He relaxes with hoodies under bomber jackets, worn with the day's trousers or athletic pants. And he hits the outdoors in plaid shirts and shearling coats.

Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models crisscrossed the runway beneath arched gates, suggesting a Middle Eastern market. The exotic vibe also was reflected in ethnic patterns that cut diagonally along jackets, or were put tile-like on bombers.

A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Versace's neoclassic Greek patterns were replaced this round with photographic prints of classical sculptures.

A model wears a creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"This is a collection about the different tribes of Versace men," Donatella Versace wrote in show notes. Her message is about what "can happen when men from different places, different cultures join together."

A model wears a creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creations for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

RUMPLED ICONOCLAST

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Marni has taken a rumpled, colorful turn. The new Marni man, as imagined by creative director Francesco Riso in his debut season, is something of a light-hearted vagabond.

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The brand's heritage fur appears in hats that have the appearance of colorful wigs, as square tufts on jacket sleeves, wisps on collars and finally, in their full glory, as fluffy overcoats.

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

There is a geometry to the looks, reflected in the square cuts of the suits and the plaid and checks of the prints. Woolen suits have a rumbled, train-hopping feel. Tops project optical illusions, created from mismatched patches of striped fabric.

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Sweaters feature naive 1970s graphics, tucked into high-waist, big-fitting corduroy trousers. Quilted trousers in pajama prints are paired with bomber jackets.

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The effect is that of an iconoclast, which seems influenced in some measure by Riso's last employer, Prada. The designer, who studied in Florence, New York and London, took over from the brand's creator, Consuelo Castiglioni, who stepped down last October, citing personal reasons.

A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for the Marni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 14, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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CLASSICS REINTERPRETED

Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted classics through the decades with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.

Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.

Many of the looks were feminized, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.

Double-breasted suits with soft helm-lines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.

Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with gray scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while molded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette.

Hair was slicked back and footwear had thick traction soles. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters. The color palette was classic: gray, black, tan and olive green.

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MONUMENTAL LOOKS

Alessandro Sartori made his debut Friday evening as the creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna in a monumental style, sending his creations down a runway flanked by Anselm Kiefer's towering installation of The Seven Heavenly Palaces at Pirelli's cavernous Hangar Bicocca.

The looks exuded relaxed sophistication, as tailoring altered sportswear, or vice versa. Or, as the brand said in its press notes, Sarotori's "new aesthetic ... evolves and breaks codes, relying on intense textures and keen constructions that define new functions."

Elasticized cuffs on trousers and gathers on jackets created an active feel on looks that were completed with sneakers. Felted cashmere suits had the simplicity of jersey, with quilted arms in contrast colors to create a vest effect over kimono neckline shirts.

Nubby Casentino felt from Tuscany was created from cashmere and alpaca, suggesting ease but underlining elegance in loose-fitting suits. Cozy accents included high necks, big gloves and droopy caps.

Colors tended toward gray, tan and black neutrals while turquoise and white popped up on leather jackets and large knits.

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