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Fashion every which way at abbreviated Milan Fashion Week

Associated Press logo Associated Press 6/19/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MILAN (AP) — It was every man for himself at Milan Fashion Week.

Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Runway shows for next spring and summer menswear collections were crammed into three days, ending Monday, with some fashion houses opting for presentations, others skipping menswear for combined men's and women's shows in September and yet others taking a break during creative transitions. The abbreviated calendar proved somewhat disorientating, leaving the feeling that something was missing.

A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Likewise, trends seemed to be going every which way. Many designers, for example, seemed not to have gotten the memo that these were warm-weather collections, with a plethora of winter fabrics like corduroy and velvet hitting the runway along with heavier gear like overcoats, beyond the seasonal bomber or duster.

Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

One thing everyone agreed on: Millennial engagement. Some houses did that by inviting young personalities to either walk the runways or sit in the front row, while others sought to attract them with proportion plays, mixed media and other youthful touches. Armani invited Liam Payne of One Direction to see his preview show; Ferragamo seated Italian rapper Ghali in its front row; Fendi hosted actor Tommy Dorfman; and Dolce & Gabbana put no fewer than 106 style-setters from around the globe on their runway.

Fashion blogger Caroline Daur attends the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Fashion blogger Caroline Daur attends the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Here are some highlights from Monday's shows:

A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

THE VERY BEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF FENDI

A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Silvia Venturini Fendi's menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi's new executive work.

A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.

Models wait in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wait in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"Lightness is our speciality," Fendi said backstage. "It was interesting to propose it on more classic looks, more traditional, with ties and clothing that I call a bit more executive, and create a contrast with the transparent jackets."

Models joke in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models joke in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The silhouette of the looks had an easy Brat Pack feel, even if the story board backstage pictured Christian Bale in "American Psycho."

Models joke in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models joke in the backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

And in that vein, ties are back, if loosely knotted, and also suspenders, but they are paired with nylon trousers or a matching sheer short, and sling-back loafers or slip-on pool shoes. The bag of choice is either a serious leather bucket-back or a more whimsical nylon mesh carrier featuring one of the collection's quotidian motifs.

Models wait in the backstage prior to taking part in the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wait in the backstage prior to taking part in the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The looks featured repetitive prints that on closer inspection reveal themselves to be everyday objects: cups of coffee, faucets, bananas, old-fashioned desk lamps, martinis. For Fendi, these objects are not symbols of nostalgia, but of things that stay the same in a changing world.

A model has his hair done up in backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model has his hair done up in backstage prior to the start of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"I like to take references from the past because they are fundamental certainties on which to build a future," she said. "But the collection is all new."

Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Fendi also has updated the logo with elegant subtlety. The brand's well-known interlocking Fs becomes a repeating print of its own on short-sleeve button-down shirts, and stand as logos above breast pockets on jackets, forming a stripe down trouser legs and stamped into the leather bill of baseball caps.

A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MADE IN ARMANI

Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Wind-swept and beach-ready describe Giorgio Armani's looks for next season, even if most are meant for an urban setting.

Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The collection opened with a sweeping, double-breasted linen trench with a kaftan feel, setting a casual note. The materials — from crinkled linen to crumpled silk __ also contributed to the carefree mood.

A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The designer, who turns 83 next month, is securing his legacy of elegance. There was little that would challenge the norms of an Armani dresser, but plenty of fresh detail to maintain their interest. Tapered pants closed with a buckle. A shiny silken suit had a relaxed shawl collar and open pockets. A crinkly white trench was worn over a gray trouser, both with optical effects giving the impression of shimmery waves.

English singer Liam Payne poses for the photographers prior to the start of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press English singer Liam Payne poses for the photographers prior to the start of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

For fun, there were silky combinations of aqua green and magenta top and bottom combinations, broken up by gray hoodies, and he played with proportions on youthful hybrid tops featuring knit fronts and shirt cloth backs. For serious business, Armani sent five classic suits with ties down the runway.

A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

For the final flourish, the designer reprised the key looks in all white versions.

A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 19, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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FAN FRENZY FOR LIAM PAYNE

Cries of adoration outside the Armani theater signaled the arrival of Liam Payne, the One Direction singer who is launching a solo career.

Payne posed momentarily under the hot sun in the concrete-clad Armani courtyard, before taking up a corner spot in the shade. The 23-year-old singer leaned against the wall, then took off his Armani sunglasses for the photographers.

"We're in a hurry," he said as he walked passed video cameras. Then, tossing out a small consolation, he called back, "I love you."

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