You are using an older browser version. Please use a supported version for the best MSN experience.

Italian fashion contrasts: Audacious Pucci, modest Max Mara

Associated Press logo Associated Press 2/25/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Models wear creations part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

MILAN (AP) — Red accents are lighting up the Milan runway, from blood red ensembles to red contrasts in footwear or a simple stripe of color. But not on the lips.

A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Milan Fashion Week previews for next fall and winter entered their second day on Thursday, with runway shows by Max Mara, Fendi, Pucci, Prada and Moschino.

Somali-American model Halima Aden wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Somali-American model Halima Aden wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Max Mara opened the show with deep red ensembles of matching overcoat, trousers and top, while Karl Lagerfeld opted for red boots to set off his creations for Fendi. In both cases, the designers opted for natural lip coloring.

A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Animal rights activists targeted Milan designers that use fur in their collections, protesting outside Fendi and Max Mara under a banner that strikes a fashionista chord: "Fur makes you look ugly and fat." Protesters urged consumers to take their business to fashion houses that have disavowed the use of fur.

Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Some highlights from Friday's shows:

Models wear creations part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

___

A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

AUDACIOUS PUCCI

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Ever feel audacious, but don't want to draw too much attention?

A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Pucci has just the looks, and the ideal target customer taking the front row: Lindsay Lohan.

Models wear creations part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Max Mara women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The collection was a parade of solid acid tones of green, pink and blue from the brand's archives in slinky fits and 1960s kaftans, that morphed into new Pucci psychedelic paisley prints.

Somali - American model Halima Aden wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Somali - American model Halima Aden wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

While many looks were sprinkled, even splattered, in sequins, the accent de resistance was long fringe. Bouncy, color-drenched fringe finished trouser legs, trailed from sleeves, and, most enticingly to Lohan, cascaded from big-rimmed raffia-inspired hats to create a privacy screen against the outside world.

A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

The "Mean Girls" actress rushed to her seat just as the models were beginning their strut, raising protests from photographers.

A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"I want to get one of the hats. I think they are very cool," Lindsay said outside afterward as she waited to be taken to a shoot.

A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Solid color is the brand's statement of the season, and a bold change for Pucci, a brand known for its prints.

A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"I really think that Emilio Pucci could be not only a print brand, but also a solid brand," designer Massimo Giorgetti said backstage before the show. "I love this show because all the colors are originally from the archive. It is the right balance between past, the present and future."

Model Ashely Graham speaks with an unidentified woman as she arrives to attend Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Model Ashely Graham speaks with an unidentified woman as she arrives to attend Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Giorgetti took colors from the 1950s and 1960s and added an acid tone. He updated shapes with cut-outs and fringe, including on the boyfriend jeans. And the prints were all new, gracing everything from bodysuits to suitcases.

Model Ashely Graham and her husband Justin Ervin arrive to attend Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Model Ashely Graham and her husband Justin Ervin arrive to attend Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"You have to respect the brand. But at the same time you have to go with your instinct and your mind," Giorgetti said.

Animal rights activists demonstrate against the use of fur and leather outside the venue of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. Sign held up at right reads in Italian "The leather of your bag once had a mother - vegan hyenas." (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Animal rights activists demonstrate against the use of fur and leather outside the venue of Max Mara's women's Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, presented during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. Sign held up at right reads in Italian "The leather of your bag once had a mother - vegan hyenas." (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

___

A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

SEDUCTION EXPLORED — AND QUESTIONED — AT PRADA

A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emilio Pucci women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Feb. 22, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Miuccia Prada officially disavows connecting fashion with politics. So let's let the clothes speak for her.

A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Her latest collection had clear echoes of the protest movement of the 1970s, interwoven with references to today's protests asserting the rights of women and native peoples. Prada's theme: Seduction, and questioning its relevance. And the implicit question: Is this all deja vu all over again?

A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Of course if you ask Prada, she will deny it all.

A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Prada women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

And yet: Crocheted bras spoke to a woman's handiwork and suggested a bygone protest era when women shed theirs, even burned them. Furry parkas with full hoods and Eskimo boots, beaded accents and trailing feathers referenced Native American cultures still fighting for control over their resources.

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Prada said the collection took off from her menswear looks shown in January, just days before the U.S. presidential inauguration.

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The male figure was her starting point "with the idea, with too much power. . And to get back to reality, to people, to a more sensitive atmosphere."

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

And she did that with decidedly feminine forms and materials. There were mohair dresses with a mermaid ruffle below the knees, crepe dresses with beading and feather accents and satiny gowns with knee-high red boots, clearly made for walking. But there were also marabou feathered slippers.

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

"Me personally, my point was seduction. How necessary is seduction: Do we use the same instruments as 50 years ago? Women want to appeal and be beautiful, but how if you are intelligent?" Prada asked, adding that this is "an argument that was never discussed and probably we should discuss again."

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

There was handcrafted knitwear, while tweed and corduroy showed the more assertive, even homely, side. Seduction is, after all, all in the eye of the beholder.

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

___

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

DEMOCRATIC FASHION

Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The Max Mara manifesto for next fall and winter is to keep it essential.

Fashion designer Jeremy Scott walks down the catwalk after the unveiling of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Fashion designer Jeremy Scott walks down the catwalk after the unveiling of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Designer Ian Griffiths said in notes that the concept was inspired by "Scandinavian ideas about democratic design," meaning things should look like what they are.

A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The rigorously monochromatic looks comprised luxury basics of a deceptive simplicity that ran the spectrum from dressy to sporty. The looks were completely void of any decorative touch, and the only contrast was derived from the pumps, from nude to metallic to white, or bags.

Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The battle horse of the 65-year-old label continues to be the overcoat, appearing also in hybrid forms of camel hair tailored with shearling and knit, or the youthful cardigan coat.

Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno). © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Moschino women's Fall-Winter 2017-18 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Feb. 23, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

The silhouette was defined by the long pleated skirts and loose-legged trousers peeking out from the overcoats, paired with sheer matching knit turtlenecks. The color palate ranged from an "emphatic red" to gray, camel and cognac. Comfort fashion included big mittens and long hooded knit sweatshirt dresses.

Taking in the show from the front row were "Vampire Academy" actress Zoe Deutch and model Ashley Graham.

"I am here representing curvy women across the world," said Graham, a brand ambassador for Max Mara's sister brand Marina Rinaldi.

___

FASHIONABLY MODEST

The Max Mara looks were modest — an easy match for the hijab, an item rarely seen on the Milan runway.

Somalian-American model Halim Aden wore a camel ensemble, including a long belted cashmere trench coat and trousers, finished with a hijab in matching tones and convention-defying white pumps for winter. She also walked on Wednesday for Alberta Ferretti in a black-and-deep blue trench cinched at the waist with a golden buckle, her head wrapped in a dark hijab.

Fashion editor Fatima Helal of the Arab women' lifestyle magazine Zahrat Al Khaleej said that seeing the look on a European runway was encouraging.

"It is nice because we like to find clothes that fit a covered woman, so when you see it on a model it is the best way to buy it. So it is a nice thing," Helal said. "That is the interesting part. It is in Europe with everything that is happening."

___

PARLOR GAMES, GLAMOUR GAMES

Watching a Moschino show is like playing a parlor game. And the answer to this round appears to be: Things that get thrown out in the trash.

Jeremy Scott's seasonal fashion provocation was exclaimed on the T-shirt he wore for his end-of-show lap: "Couture is an attitude. It is not a price point."

If the show was making a bigger message, it would be a screed against throw-away consumerism, a paean for sustainability. The clues started with an invitation: a piece of yellow paper printed like a piece of cheese in a mouse trap.

The designer's creations were dressed up as things we discard every day: Packaging, bubble wrap, trash bags, rubber gloves, dry cleaning bags, old lamps and even a Persian carpet. Handbags were in the shape of a lone sneaker and toilet paper rolls.

A series of coats, dresses and suits in packing-paper tan were printed with typical postal phrases: This side up, handle with care, fragile. These were followed by bubble wrap dresses with silver accents. Then there were a series of looks that appeared to be made from the pages of discarded fashion magazines. Once Scott gets going, there is little to hold him back and the collection hit a crescendo with a black vinyl dress (a trash bag) with a trash can top as a headpiece and a shower curtain peplum dress with shower cap bodice and headdress.

The new capsule collection, available in stores immediately, is called Rat-a-porter, headlined by fashion-conscious mice that appear on T-shirts, bags and iPhone covers.

Singers Fergie and Charlie XCX took in the show from the front row.

____

This version corrects that Graham is brand ambassador for Marina Rinaldi alone and not Max Mara.

Follow Colleen Barry on Twitter: https://twitter.com/collbarry

AdChoices
AdChoices
AdChoices
image beaconimage beaconimage beacon