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Lily-Rose Depp emerges as star of Deco-inspired Chanel show

Associated Press logo Associated Press 1/24/2017 By THOMAS ADAMSON, AP Fashion Writer
Lily-Rose Depp models with German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld during Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press Lily-Rose Depp models with German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld during Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

PARIS (AP) — Singer-model Vanessa Paradis was the image of the doting mother at Chanel's Art Deco-inspired spring-summer collection, looking on proudly as daughter Lily-Rose Depp emerged as the star of the show.

Models wear creations for Chanel's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Chanel's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Here are the highlights from the second day of Paris couture week:

A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

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A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

CHANEL'S MIRRORED SHOW

A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

At Chanel, the sparkling, reflective decor recalled the mirrors of the grand staircase that lead up to the house's famed couture salons on Paris' rue Cambon. Mirrored tiles were engraved with the signature quilted motif.

A model wears a creation as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

But it was more than just decoration.

A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by Alexis Mabille during his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

The set in the Grand Palais presentation also set the theme — turning the time dial chicly to the geometric Art Deco designs of the 1930s.

Models wear creations as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press Models wear creations as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

The house characterized the styles as "crazy femininity" on models with slicked-back hair and flattened "boater" hats.

A model wears a creation as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation as part of Vetements' Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 24, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

But Tuesday's show was more of a low-key couture affair than crazy and channeled a pared-down, pastel palette.

There were sumptuous white silk A-line dresses that shimmered against the kaleidoscopic backdrop, and fun moments of effervescence in some froufrou dresses.

At times, the silhouettes seemed incongruous, while the designs of maestro Karl Lagerfeld, now 83 years old, seemed to lack some of the exuberance of previous seasons.

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VANESSA PARADIS' FAMILY AFFAIR

Lily-Rose Depp made her runway debut at Chanel's Metiers d'Art show at the Ritz in December, but now the 17-year-old is a seasoned fashion professional.

Fashionistas gasped as Vanessa Paradis' daughter with actor Johnny Depp took to the couture runway in a frothy pink tulle bridal gown to cap the heritage house's spring season.

Former Chanel model and mom Paradis looked on proudly, passing the baton to the child who suddenly has seem to come of age.

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DIOR MASKED BALL

Bianca Jagger led celebrity guests at Monday night's masked ball hosted by Christian Dior to celebrate the house as it settles with new designer Mari Grazia Chiuri.

No expense was spared by the LVMH-owned label as revelers danced until the early hours Tuesday.

Fortune-tellers, Tarot card readers, horses with unicorn accessories, acrobats and actors dressed in fairytale garb set the magical mood that was washed down with champagne.

Although the full moon had passed days ago, Dior didn't let the trivial laws of nature ruin its party. It arranged for a floodlit lunar-shaped hot air balloon to be floated above the Musee Rodin venue.

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ALEXIS MABILLE COLOR-BLOCKS THE PRINCESS

It was a sublime collection for French designer Alexis Mabille, who color-blocked the fairytale princess.

Vivacious tulle-rich couture gowns rendered in vivid expanses of peacock blue, purple, cyclamen, flame red and teal green wowed the guests.

Crowns gave way to bridal and princess veils midway through the 24-piece display, but the contemporary colors ensured that none of the designs strayed into the saccharine.

There were plenty of great fashion ideas.

One of the fairytale-esque looks in black tulle looked like the design was channeling a dark, unraveled royal — the couture equivalent of Lucifer.

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ARMANI GOES ASIAN, 70s

It was all about peaked shoulders and 1970s glamour for fashion icon Giorgio Armani's Prive couture show.

Asian styles and loose, silken silhouettes influenced the collection that warmed frozen guests with its bright color palette.

Saturated oranges and golden reds evoked the sun of the Far East.

Shimmering sheer silks, plumed boas and fastidious embroideries made this an intricate and archetypally couture display.

It's a shame that with such musings, only one Asian model was selected for the catwalk show.

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VETEMENTS IS EDGY, ANTI-COUTURE

It's couture but not as we know it.

The wholly unconventional house "Vetements" — French for "clothes" — has been making waves ever since it burst onto the Paris Fashion Week scene.

It's a must-have brand and already a staple for self-respecting fashionistas.

Tuesday saw an edgy, almost anti-couture, display that featured mens' and womens' looks representing different profiles of people: the punk, the goth, the bride, the soccer hooligan, the portly middle-aged man and the cool business executive.

It was exuberant on the layering, and a leitmotif was the overly long flappy belts.

This detail that was also evoked in loose school ties and hanging handbag straps.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K

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