You are using an older browser version. Please use a supported version for the best MSN experience.

Milan menswear designers focus on Millennials, social media

Associated Press logo Associated Press 6/17/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Models wear creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MILAN (AP) — Designers are resizing Milan Fashion Week for menswear, condensing previews for next spring and summer into just over three days.

Models wear creations part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

While New York and London's commitment to menswear has waned, Milan remains true to the segment that fuels Italian exports. Of the 9 billion euros ($10 billion) in menswear revenues last year, 64 percent were cashed in abroad — a higher percentage than womenswear at 61 percent of 13 billion euros ($14.5 billion).

A model performs on the catwalk as he wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model performs on the catwalk as he wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Just the format is changing. More designers are showing menswear alongside womenswear, with many like Gucci and Bottega Veneta waiting for the September round. And a number of fashion houses, including Missoni and Etro, have opted for presentations, while yet others are in a creative transition.

A model performs on the catwalk as he wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model performs on the catwalk as he wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Highlights from the first day of menswear previews in Milan for next spring and summer on Saturday:

A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

_____

Models wear creations part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MILLENIALS RULE ON THE RUNWAY

A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Singer Shawn Mendes took a turn on the Emporio Armani runway, showing off the brand's new smart watch line dubbed "Connected."

A model wears a creation during the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation during the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Designers see their future in Millennials, a generation that has unprecedented power to influence and be influenced, thanks to ubiquitous social media. They migrate seamlessly from platform to platform, even from brand to brand.

A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Mendes appeared in a video promoting the watch at the end of the show, and then appeared in life to show it off and take in the fashion crowd as much as it did him. The touchscreen watch is both Android and Apple compatible.

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Armani described Mendes as "a singer of true talent who touches the hearts of his fans."

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"Shawn embodies and conveys the values in which I believe: Professionalism, commitment and innovation," the designer said in a note.

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

___

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MARTIAL ARTS AT EMPORIO ARMANI Giorgio Armani's latest collection for his Emporio Armani line proposes a dialogue with Japan, no simple cultural appropriation, mixing trademark tailoring with a flourish of martial arts.

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Dark blue urban suits had a long billowing under jacket, the first hint of the exotic and a clear statement that this not your salary man's workaday wardrobe. Suits were worn with either button-down striped shirts or asymmetrical collarless shirts, both paired with leather cords instead of ties. Notched lapel jackets were belted, or not.

A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A clutch of silken printed jackets, including one with a flock of silvery birds, won a round of appreciative applause.

Models wear creations part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Armani has long played with volumes. For this collection he incorporated martial arts-style Hakama trousers, pleated split pants that have a skirt-like appearance. To demonstrate its versatility, a model performed a series of karate-style kicks.

A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The Hakama-style trousers, sometimes silken, sometimes plaid, were worn with baseball jackets or short-sleeved sweaters with Koi detailing.

Fashion designer Alessandro Sartori waves at the end of the presentation of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Alessandro Sartori waves at the end of the presentation of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Hair was pushed from the face with crisscrossing headbands, creating a cartoon Magna-style look of spiking locks.

A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

____

A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

KING OF HEARTS

A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Ermenegildo Zegna men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, June 16, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

At Dolce&Gabbana, it was a game of "name that Millennial."

A model wears a creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The designers again invited a cadre of young influencers from show business and social media to strut their latest collection, 106 for this season, from all corners of the globe.

Fashion designer Giorgio Armani is flanked by models at the end of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Giorgio Armani is flanked by models at the end of the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

They included Chinese singer Junkai "Karry" Wang, whose fans gathered outside the Metropol theater waiting for a glimpse; the American comedian Andrew Bachelor; the Mexican actor and singer Diego Boneta; and the French-Polynesian model Tuki Brando, the grandson of Marlon Brando.

Models wear creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models wear creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Ever the romantics, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana dubbed the collection "King of Hearts," and many of the looks included hashtag-able slogans about love, from Amore Per Sempre (Love Forever) to Amore Sacro (Sacred Love).

A model wears a creation during the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation during the Emporio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The collection ranged from silky lounge wear inspired by pajamas to upscale athletic wear, including baseball shirts and basketball jerseys with the new team DG logo, to the designing duo's tightly tailored suits.

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The social media-savvy designers even got in a hashtag on their tote bags in the form of handles.

A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Marni men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

____

Models have a break in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models have a break in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

FASHION DISSONANCE AT MARNI

Models gets her hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models gets her hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Marni's new designer, Francesco Risso, in his second season, has tapped the brand's playful spirit. The collection is imbued with a boyish charm of purposely ill-fitting, mostly over-sized, and mismatched outfits.

Models get her hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models get her hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

"In a way, it is playful and a way to piece and put together in a very libertine way. Spiritual, too," Risso said backstage. "The nobility of coincidence. That is what I really love."

A model is reflected in mirrors as she walks in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model is reflected in mirrors as she walks in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The man-boy of Risso's imagining has pieced together a wardrobe seemingly of found objects. Shirts are patch-worked together and worn in skewed layers, short over long. Everything seems to have been somehow repurposed, from an athletic cap to old racing bibs with purposely naive drawings by Los Angeles artist Magdalena Suarez.

Models gets their hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Models gets their hair done in the backstage prior to the presentation of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

There is an undercurrent of femininity that can be seen as part of the movement toward genderless dressing: A long tunic seems almost a mini dress, until you see the Bermuda shorts peeking out.

Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace acknowledges the applause of the audience at the end of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace acknowledges the applause of the audience at the end of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

____

A model wears a creation part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

ORANGE DESERT AT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

A model wears a creation part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Designer Alessandro Sartori's debut collection for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture was presented on the eve of Milan Fashion Week against the orange of the Tangier desert he created inside Milan's State University.

Models wear creations part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Sartori showed off his looks in the university's arcaded courtyards, where he said he used to come to read and contemplate while a student at the Marangoni Institute of fashion and design.

Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace acknowledges the applause of the audience at the end of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Italian fashion designer Donatella Versace acknowledges the applause of the audience at the end of the Versace men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The collection mixed both romanticism and pragmatism. Safari jackets and anoraks had big utilitarian pockets, while retaining the brand's careful lines, while oversized sweaters had a more relaxed feel.

A model wears a creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creations from Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Pinks, pastels and worn denim gave a nostalgic touch, along with boyish stripes. But there was also a tailored salmon colored suit worn with layers of V-neck sheers.

Italian fashion designers Stefano Gabbana, left, and Domenico Dolce acknowledge the applause at the end of Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Italian fashion designers Stefano Gabbana, left, and Domenico Dolce acknowledge the applause at the end of Dolce&Gabbana's men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 17, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
© The Associated Press
AdChoices
AdChoices
AdChoices
image beaconimage beaconimage beacon