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Prada goes in search of the naïve, Missoni bursts with color

Associated Press logo Associated Press 1/15/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MILAN (AP) — This is the season of renewal, with new faces at some of Milan's top fashion brands.

A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

New creative directors made their debuts Sunday during the second day of Milan Fashion Week at Salvatore Ferragamo and Dirk Bikkembergs, days after Marni and Zegna set off in a new direction.

A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Roberto Cavalli and Brioni, meanwhile, took a runway break this season as they worked out what their future creative directions would be after parting ways with their stylists.

A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Here are some highlights of menswear previews for next fall and winter on Sunday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week.

A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

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A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Salvatore Ferragamo men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

IN SEARCH OF NAIVITE

A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Miuccia Prada was in search of the naive for her new collection. She found herself in the 1970s, a world of leather and corduroy, oil landscape paintings and natural amulets.

A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"That is what came out. I didn't want it, but it came out naturally," Prada said backstage, adding that the 1970s were "a very important moment for protests, for rights, for humanity."

Models wear creations for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

So the corduroy leisure suit with big pockets, the soft cashmere sweaters with fuzzy reproductions of landscapes, the furry shoes sticking out from the cuffed bell bottom pants and the hand-knit pullovers mimicking a stain glass window are all her expressions of normality.

A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

And the collection, in its simplicity, is her protest against excess, the modern need for everything to be big.

A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The collection also featured womenswear, including leather jackets with stud detailing, slit leather walking skirts and brimmed corduroy caps.

Creative director Lee Wood acknowledges the applause after presenting the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Creative director Lee Wood acknowledges the applause after presenting the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Amulets of shells, stones or branches that Prada said she plucked from the woods herself accented the looks for both men and women. Colors stayed in a 1970s design palette of brown, tans, rust and orange, breaking out for richly hued purple and blood-red furs. Bags included hard cases or oversized document holders in cow's skin.

Creative director Lee Wood acknowledges the applause after presenting the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Creative director Lee Wood acknowledges the applause after presenting the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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Models wear creations for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

COLORBURST

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Missoni is bursting with color for next season's collection, with layered looks to enliven any urban center.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

But if Angela Missoni had one specifically in mind, it is Tokyo — not for its adventurous youth counterculture or traditional silhouette, but its enduring craftsmanship.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Much of the detailing of the collection shown Sunday in Milan was inspired by Japan, including the star-fish shaped metallic embroidery on knitwear inspired by Shibori designs. Patchwork overcoats employed the technique of kimono making. And boxy jackets recalled Japanese workwear.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Together, the urban nature of the collection cannot be denied. But taken by piece, there were many seafaring references, from thick duffel coats with robe fasteners, high-neck cable knit sweaters with matching caps, and bucket hats in the Missoni zigzag that had a sailor-geek vibe. Short scarves were tied around the neck.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The hats, which also include a beret, were the result of one of Missoni's many collaborations, this one with the Parisian milliner Larose.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The modus operandi was layering without regard to conventions of pattern and color. A sweater in a blur of green and yellow is worn over a neat blue-and-white striped shirt and orange, red and purple plaid trousers.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"It is for sure a sport-lux. There is, overall, a comfortable silhouette. We can call it 'soft tailoring,'" Missoni said backstage.

A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Prada men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan.15, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

BACK TO ROOTS

A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

He landed in America as a teen and thrust himself into the melting pot, where he had his first success.

Fashion designer Angela Missoni, second from left, acknowledges the applause of the audience after presenting Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Angela Missoni, second from left, acknowledges the applause of the audience after presenting Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The story of a young Salvatore Ferragamo, who started out making shoes for Hollywood before returning to Italy to launch his fashion brand, inspired French designer Guillaume Meilland's debut collection as menswear design director.

A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The clean looks followed Ferragamo's journey from a carefree youth to the more put-together sophistication of an experienced traveler.

A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Missoni men's Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Youthful touches included rough embroidery in contrasting kinetic lines on the backs of jackets or on shirts worn with tailored suits. The silhouette was boxy with square jackets over loose pants.

"The embroidery translates the busy-ness of the street. The show is about Salvatore on the street, a young man on the street, and the allegory of the busy-ness is translated in the diversity of the boy's silhouettes," Meilland said.

Boyish sweaters tucked into trousers, or hung out of the back of jackets, for a dash-about feel. Bulky knit mittens exuded hominess.

The collection is strong on the brand's trademark leather garments, featuring aviator jackets and biker jackets. Shoes included an American-style work boot with thick sole covered with rubber studs, alongside finer Italian footwear.

"I want to bring the idea of ease, of comfort, to menswear," Meilland said backstage. "I want to get rid of conformity."

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UTILITARIAN HIP

British designer Lee Wood has infused the Dirk Bikkemberg's brand with a northern European utilitarian hipness, clothes for the urbanite on the go.

The clean collection marked a new era for the Belgian brand, with sharply defined silhouettes.

"It is masculine, authoritative, authentic, strong, relaxed and true," Wood said backstage. "I like essential fashion. This reflects in the clothes."

Suit jackets buttoned off-skew and featured big outside pockets. They were paired with slim pants when short, and baggy trousers when long.

Cargo pants had a jean fit, creating a workman look when worn with a boxy jacket. Zip up turtlenecks offered extra protection against the elements under suits. Shearling jackets and parkas balanced volume with slim leggings.

"A guy today, he needs to go out. He needs to get on the motorbike. He needs to go on the metro. Utilitarian is that," Wood said.

The thick knitwear was fashioned from merino wool, chenille and mohair. Zip pockets on elbow patches added a level of cool functionality.

The color palette included reassuring tones of camel, black, white and navy with flashes of orange — useful for the urbanite in evening traffic.

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Follow Colleen Barry on Twitter at https://twitter.com/collbarry

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