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Tadashi Shoji, Desigual kick off NY Fashion Week

Associated Press logo Associated Press 2/10/2017 By The Associated Press
A model pulls off her jacket to be photographed by fashion photographers as she arrives for a fashion show at Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press A model pulls off her jacket to be photographed by fashion photographers as she arrives for a fashion show at Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

NEW YORK (AP) — New York Fashion Week kicked off Thursday in the middle of a snow storm that had some of the usual swans donning parkas, snow boots and ski caps instead of the usual sky-high heels and fashion finery.

Guests and models arrive at Skylight Clarkson Square for a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press Guests and models arrive at Skylight Clarkson Square for a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

The crowds hopped over snow banks and splashed in slush as they turned out at more than a dozen shows that began the eight-day event featuring designers' collections for fall and winter. Some stealthily swapped their messy boots and warm gear once they made it to their destinations, cramming boots and hats in bags as they took their seats.

A fashion photographer photographs guests arriving for a fashion show at Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press A fashion photographer photographs guests arriving for a fashion show at Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

Ruth Sutcliffe, who works for a company that developed a scent for Tadashi Shoji, made her way into town by commuter train from Greenwich, Connecticut, then hopped a subway and trekked through snow on foot to take in the action backstage before his show. She changed into a dress and heels in a bathroom.

A model steps over slush as she arrives at Skylight Clarkson Square for a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press A model steps over slush as she arrives at Skylight Clarkson Square for a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

"I walked in my Uggs and my fleece pants and my down feather coat," she laughed. "It is what it is. You have to brave the cold. I'm not going to wear high heels in the snow and sludge."

Guests wear various fur-like coats after viewing the Tadashi Shoji fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Guests wear various fur-like coats after viewing the Tadashi Shoji fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Fashion blogger Lindsi Lane, who lives in Manhattan, didn't have far to go to make it safely inside fashion week's official Clarkson Square venue, but she was weather ready, big labels and all, in fluffy ear muffs, a warm cabled sweater and a fox fur vest to go with her skinny black Missoni patent leather pants and Louis Vuitton snow boots.

A woman sidesteps slush as she crosses a street on her way to a fashion show at the Skylight Clarkson Square during fashion week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press A woman sidesteps slush as she crosses a street on her way to a fashion show at the Skylight Clarkson Square during fashion week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

"At the end of the day, like any true fashionista, we pull it together," she said. "We gotta bring it."

Guests heading to a fashion show cross a slushy intersection as they arrive at the Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press Guests heading to a fashion show cross a slushy intersection as they arrive at the Skylight Clarkson Square during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

Among the day's highlights:

A woman walks through slush as she crosses the street on her way to a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson) © The Associated Press A woman walks through slush as she crosses the street on her way to a fashion show during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson)

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Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

TADASHI SHOJI EMBRACES LOVE, '70s YOUTH STYLE

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Shoji wasn't sweating the blizzard ahead of his 1960s and early '70s collection of sensuous velvets and brocades inspired by youth revolutions around the world.

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

He lives in Los Angeles, but his team was ready for snowmaggedon. Besides, the Japanese designer said in an interview backstage, all the swirling, white, wet stuff was "pretty, and traffic was so quiet. It's good."

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

On the runway, Shoji worked in vibrant forest green, deep reds and splashes of purple. Floor length gowns with keyhole necklines had long bell sleeves, lace insets and velvet ribbon detail. He and some of his models wore white bandannas, embracing an effort by the industry watchers at the Business of Fashion to acknowledge President Donald Trump's immigration ban under the moniker "#TiedTogether."

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

"More than 50 persons in my company are immigrants," Shoji said.

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

The message, Shoji said, was simple: love, liberation, unity.

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

—Leanne Italie

Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion from the Desigual collection is modeled during Fashion Week on, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

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The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

DESIGUAL GOES BOLD

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Desigual presented a collection for bold women who do not shy away from vivid prints and colors Thursday, the first day of New York Fashion Week.

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Inspired by the '60s, '70s and '80s, the Spanish brand put out a fall-winter line that included military jackets, pants and dresses with animal prints, checkerboards, lots of buttons, transparent skirts and wide belts.

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

The collection evoked a punk, underground philosophy, said Daniel Perez, the brand's communications director.

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

"These were subcultures that would question gender issues and where women would play a relevant role," he said in a backstage interview. "For example, the collection evokes the attitude of the female cartoonist group behind Wimmen's Comix. They wanted to write from their feminine perspective because, until then, that was an underworld with a very masculine vision."

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

—Claudia Torrens

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

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EDS NOTE: NUDITY - The collection by Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press EDS NOTE: NUDITY - The collection by Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

ADAM SELMAN COMBINES MOURNING VEILS WITH COWGIRL

Fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Selman, a go-to for Rihanna, sees dark times politically, letting models outfitted with rose-topped mourning veils tell that story. But he wants his brand to uplift, including a shout-out in large pink buttons left on his front-row seats that read: "Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood," part of an initiative put together by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press The fashion collection from Tadashi Shoji is modeled during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Backstage after his show of rose-embroidered tulle, outsize shirt dresses, cowgirl denim and '70s sparkle, Selman explained: "For me, everything has to be joyous, everything has to be uplifting. I wanted it to feel up and triumphant in a way."

Fashion designer Tadashi Shoji waves to the audience after unveiling his latest collection during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews) © The Associated Press Fashion designer Tadashi Shoji waves to the audience after unveiling his latest collection during Fashion Week, Thursday, Feb. 9, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

His girl is seasonless, and she enjoys fun party dresses. She also enjoys gingham, in a pink and black bustier, open-back looks encrusted to catch the light and red silk pajama pants.

The head pieces are a collaboration with Gigi Burris Millinery. And the folky roses on denim reflect his love of certain decade.

"I always go back to the '70s," said Selman, a Texan still. "I can't help myself."

—Leanne Italie

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