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Young designers take spotlight during Milan Fashion Week

Associated Press logo Associated Press 6/18/2017 By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Writer
Model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press Model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MILAN (AP) — A fresh breeze buffeted Italy's fashion capital during the second day of Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, both literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and figuratively, as young designers took the spotlight.

In this photo taken with a slow shutter speed a model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press In this photo taken with a slow shutter speed a model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

They brought with them fresh silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of old summertime favorites from linens to stripes.

A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Here are highlights from menswear previews Sunday in Milan for next spring and summer:

A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

TEXTURES AT FERRAGAMO

A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Guillaume Meilland's second collection for Ferragamo is inspired by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.

A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

The looks are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen's sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser cut tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer also added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.

A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation of the Salvatore Ferragamo men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

"Yes I like the idea of having, for me, something very Italian, something very much linked to the idea of the holidays and the seaside," Meilland said backstage. "Textures, colors, we are trying combine soft velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens ... The fluid and something more rough."

Models wear creations part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Models wear creations part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The looks combined for an effortless silhouette that Meilland said was inspired by the 1960 French film "Purple Noon," based on the Patricia Highsmith's "Ripley" novels.

A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Ferragamo's footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for the city or rope accents for the seaside.

A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

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A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

CELEBRITY TURNS

A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation part of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Italian rapper Ghali honed in on a pair of velvety shorts with a sea horse print on a golden background from the front row of Ferragamo's show for next spring and summer.

Creative Director Lee Wood waves to the audience at the end of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno) © The Associated Press Creative Director Lee Wood waves to the audience at the end of the Dirk Bikkembergs men's Spring-Summer 2018 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 18, 2017. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

"I really like the collection. I love lots of the textures that I saw," said Ghali, a Milan native whose new album, titled "Album," is being promoted with an ad on the Duomo cathedral.

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BRUTALISM AT BIKKEMBERGS

Lee Wood laid the seams bare at Dirk Bikkembergs during his second season as its creative director.

The clean collection revealed the construction details that create rhythms with their repetition, from the patchwork trousers to the intarsia knitwear.

Wood said he was inspired by the brutalism architectural movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s that stood against adornment.

"I wanted it to be brutal. I wanted it to be honest. I wanted it to be like men should be," Lee said backstage. "I don't want to see men all pretty and perfect. I think a man should be rugged."

The lines were simple, with neat T-shirts with scooped necks paired with urban patchwork trousers cut from natural fabrics. The cuffs were turned up to reveal the rough seam. Heavy boots and utilitarian sandals anchored the looks.

Suit jackets were worn with shorts that were nearly bloomers in proportion, a fob to summer, while some trousers were festooned with maxi-pockets. Tops, by contrast, were soft, like one that was a patchwork of gold, light blue and white.

While the materials were mostly natural fibers and the color palette based on hues of blue, white and slate gray, the collection closed with flashes of green and Japanese technical fabric.

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YOLO FROM KOREA

Korean designer Munsoo Kwon made his Milan debut in the Armani theater with a collection that contained some measure of autobiography.

The triptych collection includes pieces based on European tailoring, Korean military wear and a series of character looks. The thread that connects them all: The YOLO phenomenon, previously, before the invention of abbreviation-loving social media, known as "You Only Live Once."

The 37-year-old Kwon expresses his whimsy with out-of-proportion cuts: Boyish striped sweaters that are part of his character series are gigantic with wide, trailing arms, dwarfing the wearer.

The military looks are elongated and soft, not your usual regimented rendering. And the tailored outfits are clean and elegant, featuring pinstripe pants with long belts worn with a pajama-inspired top and a trench coat with bell sleeves.

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