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YSL ad triggers sexism outcry as Chanel rockets to space

Associated Press logo Associated Press 3/7/2017 By THOMAS ADAMSON, Associated Press
A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

PARIS (AP) — Chanel rocketed into space Tuesday at Paris Fashion Week in an interstellar-themed show spectacular that saw designer Karl Lagerfeld reach for the stars — and a star-filled front row.

A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Singer-turned-fashion designer Rihanna stunned crowds in a standout citrus lime coat at her Fenty X Puma collection that channeled school-girl-gone-bad.

A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

And Paris saw protest against a controversial new "Saint Laurent" ad campaign that rights groups say is sexist.

Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli smiles after Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli smiles after Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

Here are the highlights:

A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

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German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld appears after Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld appears after Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

CHANEL'S APOLLO NO. 5

A model wears a creation for Miu Miu's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Miu Miu's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

It was a return to form for Lagerfeld Tuesday, who explored space-infused styles in a fresh-feeling collection that was the 83-year-old's best in seasons.

A model wears a creation for Miu Miu's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Miu Miu's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne and Lily-Rose Depp delighted as Lagerfeld pressed the "ignition" button that saw a gargantuan Chanel "Space Agency" rocket take off inside the Grand Palais.

Models wear creations for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection, Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection, Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A round, raised-collar defined the chic aesthetic on skirt-suit styles — evoking a space-helmet neckline. While, sparkling silver and white boots merged the utilitarian astronaut-look with a chic Chanel signature — the square black toe.

A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Minimalist pure-white mini dresses also cleverly captured the futuristic feeling — with cosmic-embroidered clusters sparkling against black fabric — the vast fabric of space.

Gigi Hadid wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori) © The Associated Press Gigi Hadid wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

But beyond the smart fashion details, Lagerfeld really had some fun.

U.S singer Pharrell Williams poses before Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection, Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press U.S singer Pharrell Williams poses before Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection, Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Guests starting snapping with their cameras as models wrapped in huge reflective, heat-resistant shawl-blankets strutted around the giant, ceiling-high space shuttle installation that at one point pumped out smoke, grumbling noisily.

German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld holds the hand of Hudson Kroenig at the end of Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld holds the hand of Hudson Kroenig at the end of Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

It was Paris fashion's Apollo No. 5.

Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

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Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

RIHANNA GOES BACK TO SCHOOL

Models wear creations for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

Moving on from her more saccharine, historic Marie Antoinette looks last season, the nascent 29-year-old designer developed a little — going back to college in the scholastic Monday night show.

Models wear creations for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer) © The Associated Press Models wear creations for Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Zacharie Scheurer)

It was called Fenty University.

Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press Singer and fashion designer Rihanna acknowledges applause at the end of her Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection for Fenty as part of Paris Fashion Week, presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

On-trend oversize nerdy glasses, long flappy scarves, huge preppy sweaters, pleated skirts and sports team uniforms were imagined in orange maroon, apple green, bright yellow and dark blue.

A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Caps were emblazoned with an "F," denoting the Barbadian star's middle name of Fenty.

A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A sexual, edgy twist was provided in exposed midriffs, flesh-baring lycra shorts and one knit sports crop top with breasts peeking out. While, thigh-high laced baseball boots capped the dose of fetishistic, school-girl provocation.

A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Rihanna has shown critics with this more thoughtful collection that she's growing as a designer.

A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

But it hasn't convinced everyone. One Twitter observer suggested the star not quit her day job, commenting acidly: "Please Don't Stop The Music."

A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation by fashion designer Rihanna as part of Fenty's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris, Monday March 6, 2017. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

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A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus) © The Associated Press A model wears a creation for Chanel's Fall-Winter 2017/2018 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented Tuesday, March 7, 2017 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

PROTEST AGAINST NEW SAINT LAURENT AD

Campaigners are accusing Saint Laurent of sexism after an ad campaign was released that they say features women in degrading poses. They are demanding its withdrawal.

A French women's rights group held a protest Tuesday in front of Saint Laurent's Left Bank Paris boutique against the publicity campaign that shows a model in fur and fishnets opening her thighs, and another model in a leotard bending over a stool.

Advertising campaigns in France are frequently criticized for objectifying women to sell products, but this season's Saint Laurent campaign was singled out notably because of the suggestion of violence.

French advertising authority ARPP told The Associated Press that it wrote to Saint Laurent Monday regarding the complaints it has received about the imagery.

The fashion house had no immediate comment Tuesday.

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PHARRELL'S TWO ROCKETS

Williams told the AP of his amusement over the Chanel show space-shuttle decor.

"It's funny, you know. I have a son named Rocket and there's a rocket in front of me," said the singer, who's also a Chanel brand ambassador.

Speaking of the house, the 43-year-old said: "I think it's amazing, I mean as always, you know they color outside the lines."

Williams joined singer Lily Allen on the front row inside the Grand Palais venue. Allen said she was currently recording her fourth album.

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MONCLER GAMME ROUGE

Scandinavia was in the air at Moncler.

An autumnal forest decor with golden green fallen leaves met guests at lauded designer Giambattista Valli's illustrious Tuesday show.

And references to the styles of the northernmost reaches of Europe were ubiquitous in the wintery 48-look display.

Thick Scandinavian knits with the signature zigzags and motifs that circled the neck appeared on layered top-heavy silhouettes with short minis and woolly tights.

Knitted gloves and the famed, knitted boot-sock that helps those in the colder climates stay warm in the winter months added a fun touch to imaginative and well-executed collection. Straps on the torso evoked the braces of skiing salopettes.

Flower motifs — a Valli signature — came in purple, green and maroon.

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FURRY MIU MIU

Transparent layers and bushy fur coats provided delightful contrasts at Miu Miu, the little sister house of Italian fashion icon Miuccia Prada.

VIPs and guests admired the incredible decor — an entire staircase covered in purple fur.

It nicely set the tone of the typically color-rich collection that mixed 1940s and 1950s style in that inimitable Miu Miu way.

The postwar shawl collar silhouette was imagined in vividly colored fur with cinched waists.

Exaggeratedly large hats repeated this bold palette and conjured up the large headwear of the golden age of Parisian couture in the 1950s.

Quirky was the word.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

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