Everything you need to know about IPL hair removal

© Getty Images Your expert guide to IPL hair removal, from the treatment time to the results you can (realistically) expect, and the best at-home IPL devices to try now.

IPL hair removal is a treatment offered in clinics up and down the country, and now, some at-home IPL devices are advanced enough to compete with the professional treatments on offer.

If this hair-removal method is something you're considering, read on for the latest expert advise on everything you need to know about it, from the differences between IPL and laser, to what the treatment entails and how long results last.

What is IPL?

"IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light and is a type of light treatment that uses strong pulses of light to stimulate or treat various issues within the skin,” explains facialist and laser specialist Debbie Thomas. “Sometimes people think IPL is laser as they can do some similar things, but they are not the same. However, the principle of how they work is similar: both direct light at the pigmentation in the hair, causing a burst of heat that damages or kills the cells that cause that hair to grow."

How does IPL hair removal work?

"The light that comes out of an IPL device is absorbed by the pigment in the hair, causing a buildup of energy which turns to heat (think of a black T-shirt on a sunny day),” says Thomas. “The heat travels down the hair and disables or destroys the cells that make new ones.”

Does IPL hair removal hurt?

You’ve likely heard varying responses to this question, as the answer really depends on your pain threshold. The sensation is generally compared to that of an elastic-band flick – but the best IPL devices out there work so quickly, you’ll barely have time to register the sensation.

How long does IPL hair removal take?

Some may see results in as little as three weeks – but again, the exact time will differ from person to person, depending on various factors.

As dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto explains, “your hair has cycles just like your skin does. Your hair has a growth phase, a rest phase, and a shedding phase. One of the main reasons why you need to do repeat treatments with IPL or even laser, is because your hairs are not all in the same phase of the cycle at the same time. So to catch all of them, and to get rid of them permanently, you almost have to chase the cycles. This is why at-home IPL treatments are often repeated every four weeks after the initial weekly treatment phase”.

Who is suitable for an IPL treatment?

Whether you’re booking into a clinic or investing in an at-home IPL machine, it’s crucial to first assess your suitability.

Firstly, not every skin tone is suitable for IPL. As the technology works by targeting the pigment in the hair, there needs to be a notable difference between your skin tone and your hair colour. Most experts advise against using an IPL machine on Black skin, as there is a risk of damage and discolouration, and those with light blonde and red hair should similarly sit this treatment out.

“The quickest and the best results are likely to be on somebody who has fine, dark hair and relatively light skin. If you’ve got underlying skin or medical issues, such as PCOS or thyroid issues, you may find the treatment takes longer. So there’s a lot of individual factors that one needs to consider.”

Dr. Salinda Johnston of Candela Medical adds that “in a clinic setting, medical conditions are always discussed during your consultation and therefore any contraindications which may compromise the treatment will be presented”.

There are certain conditions which prevent clients being treated with light-based technology. “Often, they are related to medications that cause light (photo) sensitivity, or for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding," adds Dr. Johnston.

IPL vs laser hair removal: which is better?

When used as hair-removal methods, both lasers and intense pulsed light (IPL) use light to heat hair follicles and prevent regrowth. While similar-sounding, the technology used by each really isn’t, with the key difference being the light source used.

Lucy Xu, skin specialist and founder of London Premier Laser & Skin Clinic, explains that “typically, IPL technology will require more treatments and may produce less effective hair reduction. New laser technologies we work with in the clinic are more advanced and effective than IPL counterparts with less discomfort (as they are fitted with integrated cooling systems). In addition, it means our machines can treat a wider range of skin and hair types than an IPL device can”.

The best IPL hair removal devices

If you prefer the convenience – and cost benefits – of removing your hair at home, you have plenty of good options. There’s now a wealth of IPL devices for at-home use on the market, and many can deliver brilliant results. However, they also vary wildly in terms of price, performance and usability, so it pays to do your research beforehand.

When choosing the best IPL device to invest in, the key things to consider are as follows:

1) The lifespan. First and foremost, it’s important to check the number of ‘flashes’ your device will emit. The cheapest models on the market may only last you a few years before requiring replacing, but a good IPL device will deliver decades of regular use.

2) The power. Many IPL devices come with varying levels of intensity, meaning you can treat hair on various parts of your body effectively. The very best, such as Braun’s Silk-Expert model, even come with a smart sensor and auto-adjust to the correct intensity for your skin tone and hair colour on contact.

3) The speed. Considering the speed between each flash may sound superfluous, but a slow IPL device makes for a laborious treatment, meaning you’re less likely to use it regularly.

4) The treatment heads. The best IPL machines will come with various heads to fit your under-arms, legs, and even your upper lip.