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Victoria Beckham's SS19 10th anniversary show at London Fashion Week

Evening Standard logo Evening Standard 16/09/2018 Karen Dacre
a woman standing in front of a fence © Provided by Independent Digital News & Media Limited

Unveiling her latest spring/summer offering here on UK soil, the Spice Girl who was reborn as a fashion designer, chose a gallery in Dover Street as the backdrop for her anniversary showcase.

While fashion shows have become very much part of the job for Beckham who has, until now, chosen New York Fashion Week as her location of choice, there was a sense that this was not business as usual this morning.

From the supreme roster of models - Stella Tennant opened the show with Edie Campbell and Liya Kebede also on the runway today - to the extended Beckham brood who joined show regulars David, Brooklyn, Cruz and Harper on the front row today, there was no mistaking the sense of occasion.

Undoubtedly Beckham, a woman who has grown use to working under the magnifying glass of the fashion industry, felt it too. “It has been stressful” she admitted to editors who greeted her backstage after the show, “but I’m so excited to come back and celebrate with you guys”.

For Beckham, who grew up in Essex and resides in West London, this homecoming was as much about high fiving the British fashion industry as it was about generating noise - and sales - among customers and clients.

Accordingly, the collection on offer was a commercially astute one which showcased Beckham’s understanding of the luxury retail world.

An exercise in what those well versed in fashion terminology would describe as wardrobing, it offers everything from trench coats, to oversized bags to shirts to trousers - each of which oozed with a precise sense of luxury which is innate to the Beckham brand. A homage to the work of Nicola British painter Nicola Tyson, Beckham’s collection also toyed with colour: pops of brightness came via printed overcoats and on structured stilettos.

Putting a female protagonist front, right and centre Beckham’s intention was to write a wearable love letter to Twenty First Century Women. “It’s all about celebrating women, not just the Victoria Beckham woman - we haven’t always done so in the past” she said.

The result of this idea was a Victoria Beckham which had a definitely practical edge. Clearly designed to be lived in and not hung on mannequins and marvelled at, these were clothes which took into account the needs of a modern woman - albeit one with a desire to buy luxury clothes.

Narrow cut trousers, split at the ankle to accommodate a low leather boots while flattering the wearer, were among the finest examples. Trench coats, designed to be slung over the shoulder like capes, also stood out. Beckham also gifted her customers - busy women with places to go - an oversized leather dust bag.

While Beckham was reluctant to describe this tenth anniversary collection retrospective, it was loaded with some of her brand signatures - all of which have improved and developed as Beckham’s business has grown. Accordingly, the draped silk dresses and angular tailoring on the catwalk today was among her best yet.

The show marked the start of a very busy sunday for Beckham. As well as hosting another showcase and a stream of events for her most loyal customers, the designer is co-hosting a party with Vogue editor Edward Enninful this evening. Undoubtedly, London Fashion Week is hers.

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