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Thai American Smash Burgers From Renowned LA Chef Kris Yenramboong Land in London

Eater logo Eater 5/20/2022 James Hansen
A Thai-American smashburger as served at Chet’s, LA chef Kris Yenramboong’s collaboration with Ennismore. © Chet’s A Thai-American smashburger as served at Chet’s, LA chef Kris Yenramboong’s collaboration with Ennismore.

Renowned chef Kris Yenramboong, best known for LA restaurants Night + Market and Night + Market Song, has devised the menu at Chet’s, a Thai American diner pop-up that will become a permanent restaurant in Shepherd’s Bush later this year. It will run at Rondo La Cave, inside the Hoxton Hotel in Shoreditch, which happens to be opening a hotel in Shepherd’s Bush, also later this year.

A wedge salad made with pork jowl and nam jim; the pork and beef diner smash burger with chilli and coriander; and a beef tartare which Yenramboong has labelled an evolution on the Los Angeles original are signifiers of the approach; the menu will also include a pasta dish flavoured with nam plaa, similar to a staple of the early days of Night + Market’s repertoire. The dishes, as this is a London cave, will come with natural wines, 11 years after Yenramboong pairing flavours in this way was brand new to Californian diners.

The menu’s freewheeling playfulness will be recognisable to fans of Yenramboong’s Los Angeles restaurants, which for a time in the early and mid-2010s were some of the most sought-after in the U.S. The original Night + Market, next door to Yenramboong’s parents’ restaurant, Talesai, started as what Eater critic Bill Addison described as a “jugular” Isaan counterpoint to its ancestor next door; it would take over the space in 2015, having given life to Night + Market Song — which would become an archetype of restaurant design, as well as nu-Thai cooking — in Silver Lake, the previous year.

This restaurant is part of Hoxton owner Ennismore’s “studio” Carte Blanched, which also developed Seabird at its Southwark location, and Christina’s, the all-day space at the Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch.

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